Why are mirror checks so important?

You must make the mirror checks as soon as possible in order to allow time to make other drivers aware of your intentions, you will need a complete picture of what is happening behind including cyclists who might be on your left.
You will have to slow down to make the turn and a cyclist might catch up and try to pass you on the left as you turn.

What is the MSM routine?

MSM is the most basic important routine in driving - it stands for Mirrors - Signal - Manoeuvre.
A manoeuvre is any intended change of speed or direction.
Before carrying out any manoeuvre a driver must check the mirrors and that means the interior mirror and the external door mirror for the direction of the intended move, then when you are aware of the situation behind and if it is safe to carry out the manoeuvre, you must then consider if any signal is necessary to warn of your intentions.
Application of the MSM routine is a continuing one throughout the drive and adherence to it will ensure that you will be making decisions based on all of the facts.

What does approaching mean?

Approaching is the term used when we are travelling on a main road and will be turning into a minor road

What is a Junction

A junction is a point where 2 or more roads meet - junctions are hazards where there is a greater risk of accidents - they must be treated with great care.

My friend made 14 mistakes on her test but still passed. Why?

You don't have to be perfect to pass, but try to make as few mistakes as possible. While a single mistake that is serious or dangerous will result in a failure, errors the examiner considers not to have potential danger are recorded as driving faults. It takes a total of 16 of these throughout the test to fail you.

Safe,Legal and Convenient

Manoeuvres can only be done in places that we have assessed as being Safe, Legal and Convenient. Some of the things you should consider before attempting a manoeuvre are:

Obstructions – remember too, that anything that may obstruct your or other road users views may present a hazard and should be avoided.

Lighting Checks

• Lights are easier to check on a dull day or when daylight is fading.
• SIDELIGHTS
  Two white at the front; two red at the back. Should be bright and of equal intensity. Look closely at the rear lights to see if there is a dim glow from the brake lights, turn indicators or high-intensity fog lights — this may mean a poor earth to the car body on the nearest sidelight. If the front sidelights are small bulbs set in the headlight reflector these may be dim — these little bulbs tend to overheat and go black inside. Not a MOT fail point as such if they are both equally dim, but it's best to replace them.
• REAR FOG LIGHT(S)
  Switch on the high-intensity red rear light(s) — your headlights need to be on dipped beam. If fitted, fog lights must work, so must the interior 'tell-tale' light on the instrument panel.
• LENSES & REFLECTORS
  Headlamp reflectors must be bright and not obviously misted, tarnished or corroded. The headlamp lens should not have any hole or a crack that could let in water. All plastic lenses covering the other lights should be the correct colour and not excessively faded.

Changing a Tyre.

Next time you have a damaged or flat tyre, don't look for a mechanic. Just follow these simple steps and change it yourself.

When on a motorway – Never change a flat tyre on the hard shoulder. Breakdown patrols are trained to do roadside repairs safely, while their flashing lights are much more noticeable than your car's hazard lights.

Choose a safe place to stop away from the main carrigeway and ensure your passengers get out of the car and wait in a safe area away from other traffic.

Refit the wheel trim.

Maintenance of the Tyres.

• Examine tyres every two weeks for signs of damage, uneven wear, splits or cracks.
• Keep track of tyre tread depth by purchasing an easy-to-use tread depth gauge. The legal requirement is 1.6mm, but many manufacturers recommend changing at 2mm or even 3mm.
• Check tyres are inflated to the correct pressure every week using a reliable gauge. Do this when the tyres are cold.
• Tyres will wear at different speeds especially between front and back. Don't presume all tyres will be in the same condition.
• Ask a garage to check the vehicle's tracking every six months, or after any collision or heavy kerb impact. Incorrect tracking leads to uneven and accelerated tyre wear.
• Aggressive driving styles can take thousand of miles from the life expectancy of tyres. Harsh acceleration and braking will reduce the tread significantly.
• When changing tyres, never risk buying part worn or second-hand tyres, a brand new tyre or retread is always a safer investment.
• Caution! Remember tyre age. Never use a tyre over Six Years old, regardless of whether it has been used or not.
• At least every week check the tyre pressure (including spare). Incorrect tyre pressure may adversely affect tyre life and vehicle handling. Tyre pressure should be checked when tyres are Cold after the vehicle has been parked for three or more hours, or driven less than 1 mile. COLD tyre pressures are shown on garage forecourt. Different vehicles have different tyre pressures so check the charts.
• Insufficient pressure can lead to overheating of the tyre and subsequently internal damage. At high speeds, this could result in tread separation and even bursting of the tyre.
• Tyres should also be inspected for wear, cracking, bulging, or objects caught in the tread. If excessive wear, cracks, bulging, or deep cuts are found, the tyre should be replaced.
• Most new tyres have a built-in tread wear indicator (See diagram). When wear indicator is visible, the tyre should be replaced.
• Cars must have a tread depth of at least 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the breath of the tread and around the entire circumference.
• Do not use a deformed wheel even if it has been repaired. Such wheels could have structural damage and could fail without warning.
• Unbalanced wheels may affect vehicle handling and tyre life. Even with regular use, wheels can get out of balance. Therefore, they should be balanced as required.

Motorists often fail to check the condition of their tyres, which could have fatal consequences, Although tyres are critical for the safety of all road users, many motorists are in breach of, and, oblivious to, the legal 1.6mm tread depth requirement, and may have tyres classified as severely damaged. With a maximum fine of £2,500 per tyre with discretionary disqualification including three penalty points, motorists could be in for a nasty shock, if caught driving with illegal tyres.

How The Brakes Work.

• The foot brake operates the brakes on all four wheels. Typically, the braking system on a modern front wheel drive car comprises two hydraulic systems. Each is connected to a front and a rear wheel. This ensures that should there be a leak of hydraulic fluid from either system, at least half the braking force will still be available.
• Note any variations in the braking efficiency. If the brakes feel spongy or the vehicle pulls to one side when braking, get them checked by a qualified mechanic.
• Excessive use of the foot brake, particularly when travelling down a long steep downhill gradient, will normally cause the brakes to overheat and they are liable to become less effective. This is known a Brake Fade which is more likely to happen on cars fitted with drum brakes, but it can still apply to those fitted with disc brakes as well. To assist with the control of the car and avoid brake fade, it is advisable to make use of an appropriate lower gear in accordance with the steepness of gradient. The handbrake or parking brake is used to hold the car still after it has stopped. It operates on two wheels only (usually the back) and, unlike the other brakes, it is mechanically operated.

Controlling your speed using the clutch and brake.

Try to imagine the clutch pedals' position being related to a scale - when the clutch is pushed fully to the floor it is in position 1 and when it is fully released it is in position 10. You will find the bite is at about position 5.

In normal driving we find the bite and then bring the clutch up slowly to position 6 then 7 and eight - up to position 10 and then take our foot away.

To maintain strict control and ensure we only move very slowly when manoeuvring in 1st or reverse gear we find the bite as normal then bring the clutch up only a very small amount (to about position 5 1/2. If the vehicle picks up speed then we would push the clutch in slightly to about position 4. The distance between 4 and 5 and 5 and 6 is only very small - about the thickness of a 50p piece.

When we push the clutch in to slow down and it doesn't have the desired effect then we should use the brake - because we are only moving very slowly a very light pressure is all that will be needed.

Adjusting your position for reversing.

Winding down the drivers side window may help you to keep up to date with what is going on around our vehicle throughout the manoeuvre.

You may find it easier to see to the rear if you adjust your seating position slightly - put most of your weight onto the left side of the seat and twist your body a little to the left.

You should then find it easier to see through the rear window. Remember to check that you can still push the clutch all they way to the floor (I find that I have better control by moving the drivers' seat slightly forward.

Then select 1st gear and find the bite.

What will we be looking for?

When we are doing any manoeuvre we are looking for any other road users and pedestrians in the area. When we are reverse parking we need to make sure that there are no pedestrians near or walking by the are we intend manoeuvring into (remember it is likely that we will be doing this manoeuvre near to houses or shops where we are likely to encounter small children).

If there are any pedestrians nearby - wait until they are clear before moving.

If the road is narrow or particularly busy and doing the manoeuvre will inconvenience other vehicles you will have to consider moving on and finding a more convenient place.

How many lessons will it take to pass my test?

There is no set number. Latest DSA figures suggest between 35 and 45 hours. The number of lessons depends entirely on you.

One of the main things is how quickly you learn, other things include how often you have a lesson also the length of your lessons and any practice you might get.

I will monitor your progress on the official syllabus and advise you when you're ready to apply for your test.

Can I book a two-hour lesson?

Tuition costs quoted by the hour, but lessons lasting two hours can be arranged. In some cases two-hour lessons are preferable and recommended.

However, I recommend lessons of 1½ hours - I find that by the time we've done a briefing at the beginning of a 1 hour lesson and a short time to discuss what we've done, arrange your next lesson etc at the end of a lesson the time left for driving sometimes isn't long enough to have enough time to practice what we're learning.

 I have found 1½ hours is just about right - long enough to drive enough to get some real benefit but not so long that you become tired and unable to concentrate.

Do you teach intensive courses?

If the pupil has had plenty of previous instruction and already has a good understanding of the principles of good driving and is generally able to apply them - intensive training may well be suitable.

BUT

I don't normally recommend intensive courses for several reasons:

Can you help me prepare for my Theory/Hazard Perception Test?

Yes - this site will soon have on line knowledge checks at the end of each tutorial which are designed to consolidate the content of the driving lessons - the knowlege checks also include similar questions to those found in the DSA theory test for that particular subject area.

There will also be a number of practice theory tests in the quizzes section which are similar in content to the theory test.

The tests section includes explanations, guidance and instructon on the show me, tell me part of the practical test.

Preparation for the hazard perception test will be done in car as part of the normal syllabus - I also recommend purchasing one of several readily available CD Roms which are excellent in simulating the hazard perception test. These are updated and changed regularly by their manufacturers and I will be able to give more specific advice when you are ready to buy one.

I also recommend you consider buying your own learning aids - why not go to the resource section to see what's available to buy and where to get it.

What type of car will I drive?

The car currently used for tuition is a late model, 2 door Vauxhall Corsa. It is an excellent car for learner drivers with a particularly effective anti stall feature. It is fitted with dual controls and is air conditioned.

Will I fail if I do my 3 point turn in more than 3 turns?

Not necessarily as this manoeuvre is properly called the TURN IN THE ROAD. The number of moves depends on the length of your car and the width of the road. Provided you carry out all the observation checks correctly and have full control of the vehicle then you could use more than 3 moves.

Will I fail my test if I hesitate too much?

You need to show confidence, together with sound judgement. Being overcautious where you wait when it's safe to go can be as bad as being overconfident by inconveniencing and irritating other traffic. Take advantage of gaps in the traffic.

Is it better to take my test on a Monday or a Friday?

NO! There is no difference whatsoever. If you reach the required standard of driving you will pass no matter what day it is.
Lots of myths surround the driving test, made up by people who do not pass for whatever reason.

Before passing parked cars must I always signal?

No, it's not always necessary to signal. Use your mirrors correctly to decide if a signal is required. Remember you need to signal "If it would help another road user". If you don't use your rear and side mirrors enough, you won't know how your driving is affecting traffic behind or to your side, so you're more likely to make mistakes.

When slowing down to a stop, for instance at a junction, do I need to change down through the gears?

No, this is not usually necessary. Remember - brakes are for slowing and the gears are for going!

Concentrate on your road and traffic observations, delay your decision about gear changes slightly, it enables you to keep both hands on the steering wheel for longer; and there is less wear on the gearbox and clutch.

Sometimes you might need to use what's called block changes. This is when you miss out one or more gears. This technique is better, easier and far safer.

What's the secret of reversing including parking?

NO SECRET! Driving and hand position when reversing is important. Turn your body slightly sideways and change your hand position to 6 or 7 o-clock, so that you can see properly over your left shoulder through the rear window.

Keep the car slow, this will normally mean slipping the clutch.

This will give you more time to check round properly in all the right places at the right times, and also help you judge your distance from the kerb and/or other obstructions.  

Will I have to reverse into a parking bay on my test?

Part of the test is to demonstrate one or more reverse manoeuvres.

There is every possibility that the examiner will ask you to do this exercise either at the beginning or the end of the test.

Provided you have practised this properly it should hold no fears for you.

How can I get over test nerves?

Some nerves are normal when taking any examination. In fact some nerves CAN actually be of benefit to you by helping you concentrate.

The Driving Test is nothing to fear. There is no secret to success . Be fully prepared by knowing what to expect, but above all believe in yourself and your ability.

Make sure you have completed and practised all of the specified syllabus before taking the test. Try NOT to tell your friends when you are taking your test to avoid that pressure. Between lessons, keep practicing what your instructor has taught you. The world won't end if you fail.

On your test, keep a cool head and just do things the way you've been taught and there should be no reason why you should fail.

What exactly is the examiner looking for on test?

Put simply, a safe comfortable drive. Be fully aware of what is happening all around you and show that you can respond properly to different road and traffic conditions with courtesy and consideration to other road users. Be pro-active not re-active.

What's the difference between separation and stopping distances?

You need enough space between yourself and the vehicle in front to pull up safely if it suddenly slows down or stops.

The minimum needs to be at least equal to your speed in feet (Called the Thinking or Separation Distance). Leave any less space and you increase the risk of running into the vehicle in front.

Another reasonable rule on faster roads is to keep a minimum of a two second gap . As the vehicle in front passes an object such as a lamp post try saying to yourself "Only a fool breaks the two second rule". It should take two seconds to say this. If you pass the same object before you've finished saying this phrase, then you are too close.

For a more detailed explanation why not go to the Tutorial Section and look at what I say about clearance
The Highway code has a fuller explanation of stopping distances.

When stopping in traffic, should I put the car in neutral or can I go to first gear and hold the clutch down?

This depends on how long you anticipate being stopped. If the traffic is "stop-start" then it's okay to hold the clutch down and wait in first gear. If the delay looks like being longer, such as at traffic lights or busy junctions apply the handbrake and select neutral, then stay alert, keep looking and assessing what's going on and try to time your preparation for moving off so that when the lights change you're ready to go.

What should I do at mini-roundabouts?

Just like ordinary roundabouts the purpose of mini-roundabouts is to help keep traffic moving. Approach them in the same way by giving way to vehicles from your right.

Be ready to give way to vehicles coming towards you that want to turn right or go all the way round. Watch carefully for the other vehicle's signal and check where the driver is looking. You might get another clue from the vehicles speed and/or where the vehicles front wheels are beginning to point. Remember the vehicle has to follow where the front wheels are pointing.

When you leave the mini-roundabout, because there is less room you probably won't have enough time to signal left.

How do I deal with aggressive drivers?

Never, ever retaliate against aggressive drivers.

Some of them probably don't even realise that their driving is bad.

Be assured that if you feel that they are dangerous, then everybody else probably does too. Keep well clear.

What is the difference between Pelican, Puffin, Toucan and Zebra crossings?

Pelican, Puffin and Toucan crossings are all controlled by traffic lights, a zebra crossing isn't.

Toucan, Pelican and Puffin crossings are controlled by pedestrians who push a button to activate the crossing. Puffin crossings are user intelligent in that they use sensors to detect when pedestrians are crossing the road.

Toucan crossings are different in as much as they are shared with cyclists who are allowed to ride across.

Pelican crossings have an amber flashing light to help control traffic movement.

If you'd like to learn more about the different types of crossings and how to deal with them why not visit the crossings page in the Tutorial Section.

Are all Instructors fully qualified?

No. A fully qualified instructor must display a green octagonal badge in the windscreen of the car.

A loophole in the law allows a part - qualified, trainee instructor to practice on fee paying pupils such as you to gain their experience to pass the final, but most difficult, qualifying exam.

This practice is abused by some of the bigger, national "household name" driving schools. These instructors pay a fee to the Driving Standards Agency, they must display a pink triangular badge in the car. 

You might think it better to pay your hard earned money to someone with proven experience than to a novice.

Why not look at the getting started section where I offer some advice on how to find a good driving instructor?

What's best, hourly lessons or an intensive course?

I find that 1½ hour lessons allow pupils to make the best progrss towards their test and produce safer drivers. An intensive course may work for the minority of people but generally, the human mind and body cannot cope with the demands of learning to drive in spells of more than one or two hours at a time. (A scientific fact is that concentration levels are at their peak for only about 20 minutes at a time).

You really need time to think between lessons and absorb what is being taught. With an intensive course you don't have this time and consequently, learning may not actually take place.

Stress levels can be enormous when you are attempting to master a driving skill and if you are being unsuccessful, half an hour can be a long time. Five hours might reduce you to a quivering wreck! A few days between lessons gives you time to reflect and attempt things in a refreshed state of mind.

I generally find that 1½ hour lessons (Perhaps twice a week) work best but other factors - particularly the cost of lessons are a factor in this. Most of pupils take a 1½ hour lesson once a week and as when we're getting ready for their test this may go up to twice a week; or if they're able to do private practice with a friend or relative one every 2 weeks to make sure that no bad habits appear in their driving.

Some driving schools offer a guaranteed pass

Yes, but are they being truthful? - How can anyone guarantee a pass in any exam!

These instructors sometimes also offer free lessons if you fail after an intensive course until you do pass the exam.

Read the small print - do you know anyone who really works for nothing?

There are people in my family who only needed 10 lessons

Yes, and there are some people driving around who have never taken a lesson!

Learning how to control a car hasn't changed a great deal, in fact modern cars are easier to control than ever before, what's changed over the years is outside the car.

We have to deal with constantly changing road technology including traffic light controlled junctions, a new mini-roundabout appearing every few months, speed bumps, dual carriageways etc. generally these "improvements" are implemented over a period of time but a new driver has to deal with them all at once. There has been a massive increase in car ownership over the years resulting in a much greater volume of traffic coupled with excessive street parking leading to greater congestion.

There has also been a steady decline in the attitude and behaviour of other drivers towards learner drivers. This in itself makes learning harder and with a poor or inexperienced instructor you may feel stressed during your lessons. . Some drivers conveniently seem to forget that they were learners themselves once.

Be realistic about time scales and remember that a full driving licence will last a lifetime (providing you look after it), so you should think of the value of each lesson rather than the cost.

Why don't you give discounts for booking and paying for lessons in advance?

There are schools and instructors who give discounts for advance booking - their offers of free or reduced prices for a number of lessons are usually dependent on you paying a substantial sum of money "up front"

Ask yourself what would happen if you decided that you don't get on with the instructor or are unhappy with the level of service he provides - do you think your money is going to be refunded?

Having got your money in advance - how much commitment can you expect from that school - will they be concerned if your normal instructor is not available for instance?

And even if everything goes well - what happens if your instructor becomes sick and will not be available for a long period - one of my recent pupils came to me because her instructor had died! (not in the car). Do you think she felt able to go and ask for the money she had already paid to be refunded - of course not.

If you're taking driving lessons in Hull with me - I will only ask for payment at the end of the lesson and at any time if you weren't satisfied I wouldn't expect you to pay me - but it's never happened yet!

Should I ask questions during lessons?

YES YES YES

You definitely should ask questions if you're not absolutely sure about something. You might feel a bit awkward asking a question if you think that you should already know the answer, especially if you think you've been told a hundred times already but you must ask and you won't be made to feel silly.

You can sometimes seriously improve your driving skills by clarifying a point so go ahead and do it.

Should I practice privately?

If the opportunity is there then by all means take it. All practice helps to improve skills and confidence. If the opportunity is not there then it doesn't really matter, in fact lots of people these days pass the test with professional tuition alone.

When should I take The Theory Test ?

You can take the theory test anytime from your 17th birthday provided you have your provisional driving licence.

Realistically though, it makes sense to start driving lessons first if only to realise that driving is not simply a physical skill but requires thought as well.

You are unlikely to pass it without having first studied for it, no matter how great you think your knowledge is.

See the Theory Test page for more information and suitable resource material.

One thing you should bear in mind is that you cannot even apply for a practical test until you have passed the theory test, therefore test waiting times must be considered.

When should I take The Practical Driving Test?

Only when you are safe and ready to pass it.

A good instructor will be able to tell when you should attempt the test, taking into account the current waiting list, with a view to passing it first time.

It is false economy to take it unless you are ready because you will feel demoralised and have the expense and inconvenience of a re-test should you fail.

It's true to say that you could pass it if the prevailing conditions work in your favour on the day, even if you or your instructor knew that you weren't ready.

That's one reason why there are so many poor drivers on the road. Don't become a statistic, get safe, then take the test.

Why not go to the driving test area and look at what you should know about the practical element of the driving test

What can I expect from you as my instructor?
Code of Practice for Approved Driving Instructors
Introduction

A driving instructor who gives lessons in a motor car in return for payment must be on the 'Register of Approved Driving Instructors' (ADIs). To gain entry to the register prospective instructors need to pass a series of examinations administered by the Driving Standards Agency (DSA). People training to qualify as ADIs who have part completed the examinations can obtain from the Agency a licence to acquire practical experience which is strictly limited to six months. Once fully qualified and on the register, ADIs are regularly tested by DSA to check their continued ability to give instruction to an acceptable standard.

DSA and the driving instruction industry place great emphasis on professional standards and business ethics. The code of practice set out here has been agreed between DSA and the main bodies representing ADIs; it is a framework within which all instructors should operate.

Personal Conduct

•  The instructor will at all times behave in a professional manner towards clients.

•  Clients will be treated with respect and consideration.

•  The instructor will try to avoid physical contact with a client except in an emergency or in the normal course of greeting.

•  Whilst reserving the right to decide against giving tuition, the instructor will not act in any way which contravenes legislation on discrimination.

Business Dealing

•  The instructor will safeguard and account for any moneys paid in advance by the client in respect of driving lessons, test fees or for any other purposes and will make the details available to the client on request.

•  The instructor on or before the first lesson should provide clients with a written copy of his/her terms of business to include

•  legal identity of the school/instructor with full address and telephone number at which the instructor or his/her representitive can be contacted.

•  the price and duration of the lessons.

•  the price and conditions for use of a driving school car for the practical driving test.

•  the terms under which cancellation by either party may take place.

•  procedure for complaints.

•  The instructor should check a clients entitlement to drive the vehicle and his/her ability to read a number plate at the statutory distance on the first lesson. When presenting a client for the practical driving test the instructor should ensure that the client has all the necessary documentation to enable the client to take the test and that the vehicle is roadworthy.

•  Instructors will advise clients when to apply for their theory and practical driving tests, taking account of local waiting times and forecast of clients' potential for achieveing the driving test pass standard.The instructor will not cancel or re-arrange a driving test without the client's agreement. In the event of the instructor's decision to withhold the use of the school car for the driving test, sufficient notice should be given to the client to avoid loss of the DSA test fee.

•  The instructor should at all times, to the best of his/her ability, endeavour to teach the client correct driving skills according to DSA's recommended syllabus.

Advertising

•  The advertising of driving tuition shall be honest; claims made shall be capable of verification and comply with codes of practice set down by the Advertising Standards Authority.

•  Advertising that refers to clients' pass rates should not be open to misinterpretation and the basis on which the calculation is made should be made clear.

Concilliation

•  Complaints by clients should be made in the first instance to the driving instructor/driving school/contractor following the complaints procedure issued.

•  Failing agreement or settlement of a dispute, reference may be made to DSA's Registrar of Approved Driving Instrucors who will consider the matter and advise accordingly.

•  Should the Registrar not be able to settle the dispute he/she may set up a panel, with representitives from the ADI industry, to consider the matter further or advise that the matter should be referred to the courts or other statutory body to be determined.

What is the new drivers act?

This act was introduced because new drivers with less than 2 years experience irrespective of age make up 10% of all drivers on the road.  But they are involved in 20% of the accidents and 25% of all fatal accidents each year. 

This is because of their lack of experience in dealing with the various different problems that they might meet on the road.

At the time of writing (Mar 2004) over 37,000 new drivers have had their driving licences taken away by the courts since the Act was introduced in 1997, over 85% of these being male. Almost 14,000 of these offenders have now retaken their tests and regained their driving licences.

Most instructors talk about preparing for and passing the test - you never seem to include the test in your plans.

I recognise and accept that you aim is to pass your driving test.

My aim throughout your training is to produce a safe and competent driver who understands the principles of good driving,hazard perception, anticipation and planning and is able to driver defensively to ensure their own safety. When we achieve this you should have no difficulty in passing the driving test - so once we achieve my aim then yours will automatically follow.

If you think I harp on about these principles unneccessarily consider this:
DRIVERS AGED 17 -25 REPRESENT 16% OF FULL LICENCE HOLDERS, YET ARE INVOLVED IN 28% OF CRASHES, AND ACCOUNT FOR 52% OF DEATHS ON THE ROAD!

I don't want to hear about any of my pupils becoming part of these statistics! - I want you to enjoy your driving but above all else be a driver who is able to drive safely and carefully because you have been properly trained.

Why are driving lessons so expensive?

I agree that learning to drive is a major expense but I cannot agree that lessons are expensive – let me explain.

If you are the bill payer in a house consider how much any tradesman would charge you for an hours work (some charge for even an initial visit before they do any work) and then compare that with the price of a driving lesson.

If you're not used to the prices charged by other trades ask yourself “how much would a taxi ride from Hull to Beverley and back cost”? It would probably cost at least as much as an hours driving instruction and I think you'll agree that when you have a driving lesson you will be getting much more than a taxi ride.

Finally if you intend buying and running a car of your own after passing your test you'll discover that owning a car is an expensive business – but probably not much more than you pay now for transport if you have to use taxis or trains on a regular basis.

The problem with driving lessons is that you still have your normal expenses and have to find the extra to pay for your lessons – it's worth it – the rewards are enormous, just consider the benefits when you receive your licence to drive. I think that if it's necessary to sacrifice a night out once a week for example to pay for your lessons it is money well spent in the long term.

So the short answer to the question is “Driving lessons aren't expensive”

How I can save you loads of money! – Read this carefully .

No matter how much effort and help I give you throughout your training you will only be successful if you are prepared to learn – if you work hard at your training you will develop the skills and understanding that you will need to pass your tests in a shorter period of time – and the less time means fewer lessons and money saved.

In addition to your in car lessons I will provide you with training material to study so that you arrive prepared for your lessons which will save time spent on explanations during the lesson itself – more time spent driving and less talking equals less lessons required before reaching test standard.

I will provide you with a range of tutorials and practice tests (knowledge checks for you to use at home) which will help with both the theory and practical elements of your training and I promise to give maximum effort during every lesson.

So what can you do to help yourself?

Quite simply you need to be prepared to put the effort in to make sure you learn and make the best progress that you can.

If you read the tutorials I provide and the appropriate sections of the recommended books you will arrive at your lessons armed with the knowledge of the subject that we will be doing in that lesson – we'll then be in a position to practice and develop the understanding that you need to drive proficiently – after each lesson you should revise the same material that you have studied previously, the practical lesson should have armed you with the experience to go with the intial knowledge and help you to develop an understanding of the lesson. Once you have a real understanding you will be well on your way to success and early success means saving money.